Inside Zaharakos: Ice Cream, Soda Fountains, and a Century of History in Columbus, Indiana
“Some people come here and they really hope that it's going to just be fast and everything. And it's like sometimes that's not always the case. And it's not necessarily a bad thing. For us, it's about the experience,” says Scott Denewett, General Manager at Zaharakos Ice Cream Parlour.
This iconic establishment was founded in 1900 by James, Lewis, and Pete Zaharako. The brothers, who had immigrated from Greece, had a knack for the sweets business. The pioneering trio stood out by introducing modern innovations such as the liquid carbonic soda fountain and the ice cream cone. Their business savvy helped Zaharakos thrive through three generations.
“Zaharakos was kind of an icon to Columbus as time went on and everybody knew the Greeks. It very much became an integral part of the community,” says Demetrios Zaharako, grandson of James Zaharako.
The Rebirth of Zaharakos
By the turn of the 21st century the fabled confectionery was failing.
“Economics played a big part. The other situation was health. My sister and my one cousin had serious health problems. In a sense, we saved the business by selling it,” explains Zaharako.
In 2006, the Zaharako family sold the beloved establishment to Columbus entrepreneur Tony Moravec. With a profound appreciation for its history, he set out to restore the shop’s timeless charm.
Zaharako states, “He saw the potential here, obviously, it was a matter of just renovating it and carrying it on because of the tradition; that's what Zaharakos is all about. Tradition and it’s also about family.”
Sadly, Tony passed away in 2022. But thanks to his extraordinary efforts, Zaharakos is still churning out timeless treats, one scoop at a time.
Authentic Ice Cream, Old-Fashioned Sodas, and Vintage Music
When asked about the ice cream recipe, Denewett smiles and says, “Well, it's a secret recipe, but I can let you know a little bit of it. We use an ice cream mix, but it's not the soft serve. It's more of an actual ice cream, because there is a very big difference between soft serve and what we serve here. Ice cream base, all of our flavors have a little bit of vanilla in them. That's kind of like our little secret thing, and it's made here every day.”
“Here at Zaharakos our most popular sundae is the hot fudge sundae, which consists of hot fudge topped with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and a cherry on top.” demonstrates a server at the parlor.
Another standout feature of Zaharakos is its old-fashioned sodas, made using the restaurant’s original marble soda fountains.
“We’re using seltzer water,” explains Denewett. “So you’re adding a syrup into it and then we are hand mixing in your carbonation, so that way it's real rather than your auto carbonation-to-syrup ratio that you would get out of a fountain machine. That’s kind of what makes it special and authentic. Our #1 soda is definitely the Green River.”
In addition to their classic culinary offerings, Zaharakos also offers some one-of-a-kind entertainment. Over 100 years old, this Welte self-playing organ is one of the last of its kind that still functions.
“So how the Welte works, it's kind of like the wind up piano players that are hand held. There are sugar scrolls; they're very delicate, we wear gloves when we get them out. We have over 132 of them. We have a lot of the ‘Entertainer,’ that was Tony's favorite and so we have six scrolls that are just the ‘Entertainer,’ and we play that one probably the most,” says Denewett.
While the Welte’s melodies may enchant you, there are even more treasures to discover. Upstairs, visitors can step into the Zaharako family’s former living space.
“The apartment was used by the Zaharakos family at one point in time, they did move out of the upstairs. It’s been completely remodeled from when the Zaharakos family was here. One room was turned into a bedroom, another was turned into a kitchenette,” Denewett points out. “There are a lot of details at Zaharakos: the 100-year-old floor, soda fountains, and soda bar that we have. Everything is just authentically antique.”
Whether you’re eager to experience the soda fountain era or you’re just looking for a tasty treat, Zaharakos is sure to delight.
“It's actually a working museum of a time that's gone by. I venture to say you will not find another ice cream parlor like this in the world,” Zaharako declares.
—
The above video is a clip from Journey Indiana from WTIU. You can watch more segments and full episodes at pbs.org/show/journey-indiana/
